Bali: The Island of the Gods

• Mail
• ShareCopied to clipboard
• X
• Facebook

DISCLAIMER:

There is A LOT of info to follow. We visited multiple towns and had some really interesting experiences. This is a bit of a travel guide and trip diary rolled into one. If you want to read about a specific part of the trip, the links below will happily take you to those corresponding parts of the story to make it a bit more digestible. I hope you enjoy. 

The Journey and Denpasar Bali airport (DPS)

The journey started with two flights, one of about 12.5 hours and the other of about 2.5 hours. The first flight took us from Zurich to Singapore, the second was from Singapore to Bali. A bit turbulent along the way, but nothing crazy. Luckily, the most noteworthy part of the whole flight was the fancy outfits the flight attendants wore, designed by Balmain and very striking. Nothing like those boring suits we are used to seeing on other airlines. 

Bali airport was a lot after 15hrs of travel. First line was visa on arrival then a second line for border control followed, then, by duty declaration. Finally at the large kiosk right before leaving the arrivals terminal you need to buy the tourist pass.  In all, the airport journey lasted about an hour, but felt much longer. Once the automated machines get up and running at full capacity, passport control, the longest of the lines, should be dramatically reduced. Can you buy the visa on arrival before your trip? Yes, do it. It’ll only save you about ten minutes, but streamlining any part of the experience is worth it. How about that tourist pass? Is it mandatory? It’s costs about $10 and we were told we needed to show it at certain venues while touring the country. Not once were asked for it and it is not mandatory to stop at the kiosk while leaving the terminal. You can make the call whether you buy one or not. 

The Taxi ride was the first glimpse into how driving in Bali can get very interesting. So many motorbikes! It becomes obvious very quickly why, traffic can get very thick, and with a motorbike the skilled daredevils that are the Balinese sliced through the stopped cars like they were weaving Batik, the local fabric that can get as colorful as the souls wearing it. Rice fields, street racing spots, motorbikes, dogs, chickens, and shrines all stewing together in the heat of the day. About 40 minutes after departing the airport we arrived in Sanur. A small town on the coast, close enough to the airport to not wear on us already weary travelers, but still quiet and nothing like other more touristy parts on the island. 

To say we got a feel for how the locals lived in Sanur would be stretching the truth. We stayed at the Andaz which could be described in two words, luxury oasis. Dreamy grounds with local artisans, food, and wildlife aplenty. As the property is a stone’s throw from the beach, the scene is set quite nicely. The sand on Sanur’s beach is not so volcanic like others on the island, it is much grittier, literally and figuratively. Local fishing boats beached after a morning of work, local craftspeople selling woven products, chintzy souvenirs, and food. Fried fruit? Sure. Fresh fruit? That too. Veggies? Maybe tomorrow. While the propositions to buy anything and everything sped at us just as fast as the bike traffic on the path that snaked the length of the beach, the sellers were all respectful, kind and courteous. We would soon find that this was simply the way of the island and the island’s main religion of Hindu was the guiding light of this very peaceful approach to life. Balance, happiness, and good karma mixed with the typical island laid back approach creates a pretty fantastic vibe. I digress. Back to Sanur. 

Sanur, itself, is fairly small. The main bustling street with shops and restaurants on both sides depict a scene where tourism meets local life. If you stop paying attention for a second, you’ll miss a lot, and maybe also get hit by a scooter. Seriously. Luckily, traffic moves at a pace that allows for a quick hustle to cross the street, easily displayed by the dogs of the island (more on that later). All in all, it was a good glimpse into what a small town on Bali looked like, felt like, and behaved like while on foot. 

Ok, Dogs. Probably the only thing that rivals motorbikes for sheer quantity. All shapes and sizes, roving, sleeping, playing, and scouring. Cute little stinkers that’ll break your heart to think they’re out on their own, but locals will assure you they are cared for, most having owners, and are free and happy. They eat rice for breakfast, just like their owners, mainly because dog food is too expensive, and then they go play with their friends during the day, simply to come back home later for dinner, most likely more rice. Balinese dogs are hearty, medium stature, good natured, and adaptable as heck. Come to think of it, the same could be said for the Balinese people. Technically, the name of the breed is Kintamani. They’ve been relatively unchanged as a breed for 3000 years and can be compared to the Australian Dingo. 

Upon leaving Sanur it was made clear that navigating the island in a car wasn’t that complicated. It took us close to two hours to reach Manggis, but only two turns. It felt like we made a right out of Andaz then two hours later we were making a right into the Alila. And while the navigation may have lacked turns, the ride definitely did not lack excitement. Picture driving on a road you may be familiar with in the western world, crumple it up, and run it over with your motorbike. First of all, the Balinese drive on the right, not a huge deal. Look right, not left, got it. But the vehicles, not matter where they are coming from, like to go wherever there is an opening. Drive on the right? Ok. Drive on the left? Sure. Drive up the middle? Of course! At one point I felt like we were in a giant zipper, and the scooters traveling towards us were the two sides being slowly unzipped as we “zipped” down the road. Luckily, our drivers throughout the entire trip were very used to the normal antics of the roads and drivers, ignoring most near accidents as we left permanent grip marks on the handles in the back seat.

Manggis seems a bit divisive when talking to some travelers that have visited this area. It is very traditional and quieter. Not very similar to places like Ubud and Seminyak. So if you want a party, you’ll probably be bored. But, what it lacks in “life” it makes up for in culture. Within an hour of arriving at the hotel we were in a yoga session over looking the ocean. Perfect. The next day, morning Tai Chi. Same ocean view, same clumsy attempt to be as balanced as possible. Peaceful, yet very aware as to knock over my perfectly poised wife on the mat next to me. Baby steps. In addition to the ocean front activities, Alila Manggis provided a beautiful place to relax, slow down, and check out. Very different than Andaz. It comes off as more of a retreat, cradled between a coast of silky volcanic sand and mountains. Apparently the property has a resident Monitor lizard, but much to my chagrin he didn’t visit. 

The towns close to the hotel made Sanur look large. A ten minute shuttle drive took us to the town of Candidasa. The same feel as Sanur with the main street, lined on both sides with shops and restaurants, but way shorter and way fewer shops and restaurants. Quaint more than sparse. Two hours for the whole town is generous, even if you stop for an avocado coffee. Yes, you read right. Avocado coffee is a delicacy that we had never heard of before, but were intrigued enough to try once we heard about it during the drive from Sanur to Manggis. Picture a blended, no, whipped avocado in a tall glass with chocolate ice cream on top, then Balinese coffee poured over top like an affogato. Let’s just say, it was interesting. I never knew I was going to have to scratch an avocado coffee itch, but hey, when in Bali. 

On one of the days in Manggis we took a trek. It started about an hour from the hotel by car, in a place called Bendungan Kastala. At this location we saw, up close, rice terraces with Mount Agung as the backdrop. It was…unreal. At the start of the path there was a little stand where you could leave a donation. What this donation was for or where it went was a mystery, and it immediately made me think this was a tourist trap in the making. I couldn’t have been more wrong. During the entire two plus hour trek we only saw locals. Not another tourist in sight. At first, looking for Mount Agung, I could not see it. Then I looked up, way up. I’m no stranger to mountains, but this was different. With its dark color, looming 3k meters over us, it created quite a moment of awe. The snaking though the terraces was an adventure. At some points we were walking on ledges that were as wide as our feet, with fresh volcanic water flowing on our right and a drop to the terraces on our left. It wasn’t overly risky, but careful stepping was definitely needed. We passed locals carrying bags of grass to their cows and freshly scythed rice husks, and spiders in trees that rivaled my hand in size. Eyes forward, keep walking. Moving on. After the rices terraces came the jungle. Trekking up and down narrow, muddy paths led us past chickens, small villages, more chickens, and a few entrepreneurs. Those selling woven straw goods and Hindu bracelets to one family, a multi-generation bee keeper and his wife, selling honey from typical honey bees as well as black bees. Black bee honey will throw your taste buds for a loop. It is sour in taste, like it has a citrus influence, and is much darker. The black bees look more like flies, and they do not sting. Good to know, because they were everywhere once he opened the lid to the hive to show us their little honey factory. Well done little ones, one jar for the road, please. Lastly, we ended the trek in Tenganan. Tenganan is a traditional village where time has stood still. Part museum, part home for locals, this draws more of a tourist crowd. It is very small, and could be completely explored in no more than 20-30 minutes. During our walk through the town, wedding festivities were taking place. Not the wedding itself, but kind of low key pre-game. Not exciting, but the outfits were fun to see. From there, it was a quick drive back to the hotel where a dip in the pool was just the way to end the day. 

The drive from Manggis to Ubud is about 2hrs, but on our way we took a detour and visited the Besakih Temple. We got there on a day that wasn’t overly busy. Major score, as this is a huge tourist destination. There is a parking garage at the foot of the temple grounds that seems out of place, but after learning that Hindu holidays can draw millions from all over the world, we quickly understood the need. Our driver, arranged by the hotel, was also our guide while on the temple grounds. You could also call him our “protector” of sorts, as the sheer amount of people trying to sell you unnecessary trinkets all over the grounds can get overwhelming very quickly. With him there, he kept some of the sellers at bay, while providing really interesting tidbits of info about the temple itself. The temple grounds are massive, don’t think of one massive structure like a Catholic cathedral, think of a small town. Only the buildings aren’t houses and shops, they are all individual temples built and maintained by the different clans in the Hindu religion. It’s vast and impressive. There are different walkways and routes people can walk throughout the grounds, all leading you up to the main event which is a larger staircase opening up to what could be presumed as the main temple building. Keep in mind, all of the clan temples and the main temple at the top of the grounds are forbidden to enter. The entire grounds are holy, so the proper attire of a serong must be worn, in addition to tops that cover your shoulders; however, even with the proper attire, the clan’s temples and a point past the final staircase is off limits. There are signs, as well, to remind you of areas to please not enter. All in all, the temple was beautiful. The carvings on the volcanic black stone used for the temples is truly impressive, and all of the little intricacies of the buildings keep your eyes darting around like hummingbirds. The roofs are thatched, either with black straw or the more normal tan color. All of it is a sight to see. If it would be your first time to Asia, chances are you probably haven’t seen anything like this before. It is touristy, sure, but it doesn’t make it any less impressive. There are quite a few people trying to sell things to you all over the grounds. They are persistent, but if you are friendly and decline they will eventually go on to the next person. In the end, not a deterrent to see the temple. 

Ubud is night and day from Manggis. We must have left the serenity at the temple, because the buzz of traffic, LOTS of people, shops, and restaurants filled the air for what felt like a more “urban” environment. Urban is a stretch, but it definitely has a buzz. Also, being westerners, we saw a lot more other westerners at this location compared to the other places. Not a good or bad thing, but certainly noticeable. Ubud has something for everyone. Fine dining to street food and everything in between. There are bars with live music, indoor and outdoor markets, lots of shopping, temples, and shows. Traffic around Ubud is rough. From sun up until way after sun down traffic crawls around the city, unless you’re on motorbike. Unsure how to catch a ride on one? No worries, you’ll be asked or beeped at every six seconds if you want a ride. I may be slightly exaggerating, but not by much. It’s actually hilarious how many times we were asked if we wanted a ride. Also, speaking of beeping. You will hear a lot of beeping from motorbikes and cars. Not road rage fueled anger beeping, more like “hey, I’m just letting you know I’m right here, please don’t run me over” kind of beeping. Everyone is so patient and so understanding while driving. The cars know they’re stuck in traffic, and the motorbikes just zip around them like water around a rock. Between all the pedestrians, dogs, chickens, motorbikes, and cars I have huge respect that there is no road rage or any other momentary losses of cool. We attribute it to the Hindu way of life. When we were speaking with one of our drivers, he said it’s all a balance and people simply need to take the good with the bad. Love that. 

While in Ubud we went to a Lagong Dance at the Ubud Temple. This is something you should not miss. We were told about it from a friend who lives in Bali and we were blown away. Not really sure what to expect, we followed the suggestion to get there early by about an hour and grabbed a good seat. As you filter into the outdoor area of the Ubud Temple where it takes place people will start shouting for your attention to buy a drink. They whistle, clap, yell, and quite possibly even jump on your back to get your attention. Persistence is an understatement, my friend. At first I thought it was a bit much, but then I thought maybe they really do just want us to stay hydrated. Whether it was for financial gains or for our health, you’ll be very aware of their presence and their desire to sell you a beverage. Back to the dance. Once the lights go down and the music starts, you immediately feel you’re about to see something special. The colorful outfits, unique dancing and body movements, and various instruments that I had never heard before kept the interest on high. The show is only about an hour and it was a full audience. I think coming an hour before may have been a bit too cautious, but we got front row seats. People can also sit in front of you on the ground, but that area becomes a mess with people trying to find a spot when the lights go down and from my experience the hard ground is just not that comfy. Anyway, don’t miss it. You’re welcome. 

After the Lagong dance we took in a bit of the Ubud night life. There’s just something about an outdoor bar with live music. Not at all unique to Bali, of course, but we were glad to come upon one. We saw a sign that led us down a dimly lit street and came upon a three piece band at a place called Alit. Almost every table was taken, and the sounds of the band kept drawing people in. Would we go back? Heck yeah. After that we made out way back to the hotel. Upon arriving we saw a sign in the lobby that the hotel was putting on a Barong dance show the next night, so we made reservations. 

Side note, about these dances. There are four different types of traditional Balinese dance: Pendet dance, Topeng Tua, Legong dance and the Barong Waksirsa dance. All have their own meaning and backstory. Some are solo and some are group. The Legong dance is the oldest, and used to be used for royal entertainment. Barong is folklore about a goddess and her followers with some pretty special costumes of a dog and pig, more on that in a sec. We did not see the Pendat dance (welcoming dance) or the Topeng Tua (solo dance) advertised to watch, but I’m sure if you want to check all four off the list you could. Considering how great the Legong and Barong were, the others would surely be just as entertaining. 

The Barong dance picked up right where the Lagong left off in terms of outfits, music, and dancing. We learned that children, from a very early age, learn all of these dances. Then at a certain age they choose whether they want to continue learning or pic another hobby. It was nice to hear that such an age old tradition is introduced to all children, so each, whether they continue that path or not, have some vested interest in this history rich dance of their people. Simply put, the Barong dance is a story of good and evil. There are several scenes that are acted out, some involving a number of characters while others are solo. This dance includes two characters portrayed as a dog and pig, and these costumes are incredible. It takes two people to maneuver each one and when both are on stage they dance and flow around each other with such grace. One act of note, featuring the masked character Barong Ket, sometimes pulls a spectator on stage to partake in dance. When we were told that this may happen, I knew I was going to be picked. Lets just say I have a knack for being ripped from my nice little comfort zone into a situation I’d rather not be a part of. Guess what? Yep, I was chosen. Barong Ket crept through the audience like death, wagging his long white clawed gloves near each of the spectators, too scared to meet his eyes. He and I both knowing he was playing with them, I being his only and resolved victim of the night. When he came to me, I just shook my head when I felt his hand pierce the air around me and touched my shoulder. Moments later I was in front of the entire audience, aping his every move, trying to block out how poorly I was doing in front of all those lucky souls that evaded his grasp. In the end, I lived to tell the tale. Highly recommended. Not the actual dancing part, but watching part. 

Ok, so back to the hotel. Alila Ubud has a lot to offer. Its sprawling grounds are set in the jungle, it has an infinity pool, a spa, lots of outdoor eating options, and MONKEYS. We had an incredible time at this hotel, but even with all the amazing amenities, the monkeys stole the show, and, um, Laura’s breakfast. They created such comic relief, they should be paid. Lazy monkeys, mischievous monkeys, baby monkeys with mama monkeys, and pilfering monkeys. It was never a dull moment, from the breakfast at the outdoor restaurant where one literally stole food off of Laura’s plate to waking up to them running all over our roof and eventually hanging out with us on our balcony. I REALLY wanted to touch one, I mean, really. But considering I didn’t want to get bitten or scratched my senses got the better of me. We were warned to not even look them in the eye or show any teeth, as this could be taken as a sign of aggression. So even when one of the bigger ones was giving me the side eye, I let it. You win this time, monkey. 

Upon leaving Ubud the fast approaching reality that we were leaving the monkeys, lizards and frogs near the little water feature outside of our room, and beautiful jungle was setting in. We couldn’t dwell though, we had one more stop in our Journey. Next stop, Seminyak. 

The ride from Alila Ubud to Alila Seminyak was another two hour-ish drive. More weaving and zipping through absolutely beautiful scenes or local life in villages, jungles, and mountains. During the drive we were speaking with the driver all about the caste system in Bali, marriage, family life, and careers. Each subject just as interesting as the last. These facts may be better as bullets. Did you know?

• The Balinese caste system is a hierarchical social structure that divides society into four main castes, listed from highest to lowest: Brahmana (Priest caste), Ksatriya (Warrier caste), Wesya (Merchant and administrative caste), and Sudra (peasant caste making up the majority of the population)
• When getting married the daughter leaves the family and joins the husband. They live in the family house with the parents and sometimes grandparents. 
• Families, mostly share one house that is more like a little compound. There are two temples at each house, one outside to keep away bad spirits and one inside for worship. 
• Tourism makes up a large amount of the countries revenue. People can speak multiple languages to accommodate travelers from all over the world, but on average they make an equivalent to about $6 dollars a day. 

Ok, small sociology lesson over. Now, Seminyak. Seminyak trades jungle for beaches and calm for partying. It feels a bit like Ubud in terms of energy, but turned up to ten. And even though it is known as a party town, the beach front Alila Seminyak creates its own peaceful energy. Located in the middle of the property is a temple owned by the same family that owns the property. It creates a space that feels less like a normal hotel and provides a reminder that you’re somewhere special. When we mentioned to people that Seminyak was part of our trip, many said “Nice beach” in response. They weren’t lying. It has the same velvety smooth volcanic sand we felt in Manggis, but the beach is much larger. Large crashing waves, almost no shells to be seen, and lots of people doing the normal beachy things. Also, since it was the windy time of year on the island there were kites everywhere. Each location we went to we saw kites flying, but the beach in Seminyak was truly an ideal place to fly one. Throngs of people show up for sunset, which is something you need to see. With saturation cranked all the way up, the colors blaze in front of you, each layer complimenting the other. Throw the silhouette of an occasional fishing boat in the mix and you have the quintessential sunset photo for your memories. 

The town felt very busy and larger than all the other towns we visited. Senses were on high as we navigated broken sidewalks, LOTS of people, and locals trying to sell us anything and everything, and we weren’t even there in high season. It felt very focused on tourism, especially with the constant interactions with people approaching us to sell us on a local trip, transfer, or tickets to a show. It was good to see how each town could feel so different. You could still find a temple on essentially every block, and the laid back approach to life made itself very apparent, but the town had a vibe like Spring Break in Cancun.

Alas, the time had arrived for us to leave the island and head back to “normal” life. Leaving from Seminyak, heading back to Denpasar (DPS) airport took about an hour. Due to traffic around Seminyak, give yourself ample time, unless you feel adventurous and want to take a motorbike taxi. We actually saw a few travelers, luggage in tow, taking motorbikes. Even with our light packing, we felt it was a bit too over zealous to attempt. Anyway, once at the airport, lines at the check in desk seemed to last about 15 minutes, follow that up with a brief x-ray scan of any carry-on bags, and passport control and I would leave anywhere from 30-45 minutes to actually get through to the terminal. In peak season, from what we heard, doubling those times wouldn’t be too far off. Once through all the rigamarole, you are presented with a lot of food and beverage options as well as duty free and souvenir shops. If you’re into that kind of stuff, I’d give yourself enough time to browse.

The flights home were just the reverse of us arriving. No drama on the return flight, and relatively smooth. All aspects of travel we always appreciate, especially when leaving such a special place. Bye for now, Bali!