Estonia had been on my radar for some time, namely the capitol city of Tallinn. So, when I proposed the idea to Laura, and she made one better and suggested we also go to Helsinki, Finland, it was a no brainer. Geographically, they are surprisingly close. Simply separated by the Gulf of Finland and a two and a half hour ferry ride, a visit to these two cities is easily attainable on the same trip. For us, the trip was split up where we started in Helsinki, took a ferry to Tallinn, then headed back to Helsinki.
If you want to read about a specific part of the trip, the links below will happily take you to those corresponding parts of the story to make it a bit more digestible. Enjoy!
Helsinki
Surface level, Helsinki presents itself as a much younger city than one might expect. There isn’t the same “old world charm” as other European cities which normally comes from the Renaissance and Baroque architecture styles, but there is good reason for this. Helsinki is relatively young compared to other, much older, European cities. Relocation of the city to be closer to sea ports and plagues, which led the city to be burned to the ground, as well as invasions and wars with neighboring Russia, again, resulting in the city to be burned have all contributed to its looks today. To put things in perspective, civil war took place in 1917, when Finland took back independence from Russia. That’s not that long ago in the grand scheme of things. Since then, the city has had a focused trajectory forward, determined to not look back. Neoclassical in style, much of the architecture by German Carl Ludwig Engel, represents the rebirth of the city. If you want proof of the earlier days, Uspenski Orthodox Cathedral is the place. It is solid proof of the Russian influence on the country. It sits elevated on a hill, in the Katajanokka district, impossible to ignore. It’s beautiful and imposing, certainly a must see while visiting the city.
Our hotel was near the city center in Kaartinkaupunki, which was a perfect location for scratching the Helsinki itch. We knew were weren’t going to get to it all, but we had a nice mix of parks, food halls, waterfront, and neighborhoods to sample. Speaking of neighborhoods, or districts as Finland calls them, Helsinki has 34, and to see them all would require much more than a long weekend. Alas, it seems we will have to come back to explore more.
Seeing the Sights
Sightseeing in Helsinki strikes a really nice balance of coastline and city. The city is essentially a peninsula, so if you want water views you’ve got them. There you will find green spaces, walking areas along the harbor, and gorgeous views. We immediately started around the South Harbor where ships of all shapes and sizes present themselves. Beautiful sailboats with single or twin masts all the way to cruise ships scattered about. The harbor, or should I say harbors, accommodate them all. On land, you can find outdoor markets that sell food and crafts, and there is also Old Market Hall that is a must for any foodie. Inside are stalls that date back to 1889, filled with food varieties that will satisfy even the most picky of eaters. Local fish and cheeses to pizza and brunch, no matter the time, bring your appetite.
Walking further along the water will take you to Tähtitorninvuori, which is the first of many green spaces we encountered. Laid out in 1868, it has an old observatory on the grounds as well as beautiful views of the harbor from a more elevated position. From there, we cut in to the city, leaving the water behind for some cobblestones and asphalt, and maybe a pastry. Ok, definitely a pastry. In the district of Ullanlinna you’ll find boutiques, restaurants, and various local businesses, all welcoming and warm. We stumbled into Café Succès without knowing it has been a neighborhood mainstay since 1957. Tourists and locals, alike, sit in the somewhat smallish dining area for some honest, affordable food that will warm your spirit. We lucked out finding this place, and we are so glad we did. We stopped for the ambiance, and we stayed for the delicious baked goods.
Now revived with coffee and pastry, we explored further. Up the road we found St. John’s Church in the Punavuori district. St. John’s, or Johanneksenkirkko to the locals, is the largest stone church in Finland. It sits in a beautiful, grassy area, situated just across from the Design Museum and the Architectural Museum. This area sits in contrast to the street that leads you to it from the south. The tallish buildings on Korkeavuorenkau, the same street Café Succès is on, line the street and create a bit of a corridor to where the church and museums sit. It feels more open, and the neogothic style of the church is simply beautiful.
When we explore new places we walk and walk, and when we realize we’ve walked a lot and think normal people may not walk this much, we walk some more. We love to walk, plus we don’t want to miss anything we may pass if we took a car or pubic transit. From Punavuori we made our way to Kamppi. This was a cool neighborhood with a lot of restaurants, second hand shops, and live music venues. We grabbed a bite at a bustling little lunch spot called Ravintola Pamela, which was great by the way, and kept moving SW on Bulevardi, one of the main streets in the Kamppi district. If you aren’t a walker, or just want a change of scenery, trams run up and down this street with plenty of stops to enter and exit should you see something that catches your eye. Right across from Ravintola Pamela stands the Vanha kirkko, the Old Church. It is on the grounds of Old Church Park, and is another nice green space in the middle of the city. After strolling a bit longer down Bulevardi we eventually hit the water. Just before the water, by about a block, we reached Hietalahti Market. This was a great space that has a seasonal outdoor flea market in addition to an indoor market where you can sample from so many various vendors. It feels similar to the Old Market Hall in Kaartinkaupunki. BTW, my spell check is going crazy with these names. Anyway, moving on!
We didn’t get anything to eat at Hietalahti Market because we were still full from lunch, but MANY things caught our eye. If you’ve got an appetite and you’re in the neighborhood, I’d venture to guess you’d find something there. A few thousand steps later we found ourselves looking for dinner. In the same district of Punavuori we passed a restaurant called Nolla. It checked all the boxes for us with its amazing atmosphere, quaint feel, and live music. It was full when we originally asked if they had room for two, but the host assured us that if we came back in about 30 minutes, we would have a seat. We listened to the gentleman, continued our stroll, then came back a bit later. By happenstance we were in Helsinki during a week of the year when a number of restaurants shut their electricity off and use fire for everything. Only candle light and open fire cooking? Yes, please! It was a fantastic dinner, and we would recommend it to anyone looking for a great meal. We ended the first full day with an easy stroll back to the hotel. Tomorrow, we head to Tallinn full of curiosity and excitement.
Transport from Helsinki to Tallinn
Ferries from Helsinki to Tallinn left from the Katajanokka district, making it a very convenient walk from where were were in Kaartinkaupunki. Along the harbor, we saw converted warehouse spaces that were now either theaters, restaurants, or event spaces. The buildings screamed “industrial” with their red weathered bricks, loading docks, and heavy vertical and horizontal supports. Way over engineered for their demands of today, but proudly standing and harkening back to the days of old. Taking a ferry from Helsinki to Tallinn sounded like a great idea when we first heard such a thing was even possible. We had both been on ferries before, picturing medium sized ships carrying a few hundred people and some cars. Very purposeful vessels, barely leaving room for any kind of amenity or comfort. The ferry for this trip was not, in any way, what we had imagined. Enter the Viking Line cruise ship.
We arrived at the passenger terminal, at the end of the harbor, to find a full blown cruise ship floating in front of us. Granted, not one of the massive ones with water slides and swimming pools, but still a cruise ship. We second guessed if we were in the right spot, checked the monitors for ferry numbers and times, and were assured we were, in fact, at the correct location. We scanned our ticket at the turnstile and made our way up the escalators and ramps through various decks of the ship. While we were waiting to enter on the main gangplank we looked down to see semi-truck after semi-truck being swallowed up into the front of the ship like a whale gobbles up krill. I’m pretty sure any of the ferries we had previously been on could have hitched a ride in the belly of this beast. We had never been on a cruise ship, or anything this size before, so this adventure was becoming more and more interesting.
Inside there were eight or was it maybe fifty decks to choose from, I can’t remember. All I know is that there was a casino, multiple restaurants, live music, gift shops and duty free stores, and a children’s playground, to name a few. I get it, if you’ve been on a cruise ship this all sounds very normal, but we hadn’t so the newness of this situation was intriguing. We stuffed our bags in some lockers we found and started exploring. The amount of people and activities on each deck of that ship was staggering. It was loaded to the gills, which made it a bit challenging to find a seat or table, so we went outside for a little while, before the rain came. With fewer people and better air, the outside gave us a nice reprieve from the swarms of people inside, no to mention beautiful views of the Gulf. Clouds blanketed the sky, foiling the sun’s plan to make an appearance, so we capitalized on it, breathing in the fresh salt air while watching other, much smaller vessels than ours pass by. In all, the trip lasted about two and a half hours, just as expected. We divided our time in between the outside and inside, eventually found a seat to eat a snack, and spent some time exploring the ship and all of its spectacle.
We used an online booking tool to secure the ferry ride, which made the whole trip painless. The link below is to the booking tool we used.
https://www.directferries.com/helsinki_tallinn_ferry.htm
Tallinn
The Port of Tallinn is about a 10 minute walk through an area of newer construction condos, restaurants, and shopping. From there you cross two streets with slightly heavier traffic and a tram line, leaving you staring at the perimeter of Old Town Tallinn. Larger grass hills and heavy stone walls gives the impression of military fort, or more realistically, amazing medieval city. Spoiler alert, we loved Tallinn.
When we arrived in Estonia it was raining. The rain brings a certain romanticism to these old cities, with their glistening, worn cobblestones and puddles that reflect back the world as it may have been several hundreds of years ago. With each step you gain a sense of this city’s 700 year plus history. The old town is a Unesco World Heritage Site, one of the most preserved in northern Europe, and while you take it all in, the city’s character and charm grows on you more and more. After finding our hotel and dropping our bags we made our way out to prove the conclusion on which we had already come, that this city is truly a special place.
Tallinn is oozing with character. Shops, restaurants, cafes, and churches all help to create a type of portal to the past. Everything feels so old, from the streets that snake all around the city to the doorways that invite you to cross the thresholds of time. We explored with the curiosity of children, finding ourselves on a medieval adventure. There are cities that you can walk and then there are walkable cities. This is truly a walkable city that blends the old and new so well. The old town is small and could be handled in a day, but there is so much to see, and do, and eat, that you really want, at the minimum, two days here. We only had one night and two-ish days, and we felt like we needed more time. The food scene is impressive, hosting plenty of traditional, meat heavy cuisines, but there are also so many vegetarian and vegan restaurants, leaving any hungry traveler well satisfied. We were truly impressed by how many restaurants tried to lure us in with, what looked like, delicious looking options and adorable decor. Have a sweet tooth or a coffee hankering? Be ready, there isn’t enough time in the day to scratch those itches. I wasn’t sure if I was shaking from too much sugar and caffeine, or if I was just so excited to get to the next place for another delectable sampling. Whatever the cause, indulgences abound!
We had just enough time to get a really great feeling from Tallinn. The people, sights, food, and atmosphere left us wanting more, and we can’t recommend it enough.
Standouts in Tallinn:
Papermill Coffee – https://papermill.coffee/en/
Rataskaevu 16 – http://www.rataskaevu16.ee/en/
Nunne Boutique Hotel – https://nunne.ee/en/
Mall and Food Market – https://virukeskus.com/en
Estonia’s Tourism Site – https://www.visitestonia.com/en/tallinn
Returning to Helsinki
The ferry back to Helsinki was essentially the reverse of the trip there. Big boat, lots of people, no drama. Apart from not wanting to leave Tallinn yet, all was well with the world. When we landed back in Helsinki on Sunday we decided to take the long way around Katajanokka, what is essentially a small island, to do a bit more exploring where we hadn’t yet seen. It paid off, because when we rounded a bend not too far from the ship landing we saw the formidable fleet of ice breakers. These ships were lined up, side by side, front to back. The pack of five looked like they were waiting, calmly, like sleeping giants, for their season to start. With massive steel hulls and the ability to navigate, on average, through ice as thick as four feet (1.2 meters), these ships keep industry alive up north as the waters freeze. Further around the island was more converted industrial space and the impressive Uspenski Cathedral that was consecrated in 1868 and is the largest Greek Orthodox church in northern Europe.
Helsinki on a Sunday night is pretty quiet. We walked to our hotel and started looking for places to get dinner. We were confronted with a lot that were closed or booked, so we didn’t know what to expect. Luckily, through the brilliant sleuth like prowess of Laura we found a gem. Restaurant Natura is in the heart of Punavuori and is typically booked up for such a last minute request. As fate would have it, we were visiting Helsinki when a lot of the locals were on holiday, leaving many of the restaurants with open tables. Score. Natura has a Michelin Green Star for its sustainable food practices, taking fresh and local food to the next level. Presentation was impressive, and the food was phenomenal. We couldn’t have found a better place after another successful day of exploring. After dinner we found ourselves walking again, but not for long. Monday was our last day, so we decided to rest up and get some sleep before the later flight.
https://www.restaurantnatura.com
Ahh food halls, oh how we love thee. When we visit cities with food halls we make it a point to go, explore, and celebrate so many food options under one roof. Our bellies and hearts fill with the tastes and smells of what they have to offer, so when Laura said she found ANOTHER food hall in a new district, we went. We may not always have the room to sample things, but they are such a great way to see and understand more of the culture of the city. Slightly more pressed for time, we took public transit to Hakaniemi Market Square in the Kallio District. In Helsinki these markets are technically called Market Squares. Bustling marketplaces with indoor and outdoor options present a cornucopia of excitement for the senses. The outdoor parts of the markets are typically seasonal, but the indoor markets are as reliable as the public transit. A note about the Kallio District. It is a vibrant neighborhood, mainly filled with artists, younger adults and students. It’s a bit gritty, but welcoming to all. It teems with life, being the most densely populated area in the city, so if you’re looking for a little bit of everything, Kallio could very well be your spot. Back to the market. Hakaniemi Market Square is a stones throw from the subway line, making it very convenient to get there by public transit. The indoor portion of the market, Hakaniemen Kauppahalli, which was renovated in 2023, looks new, even though this market has been around since the late 1800’s. Some say it is the most authentic market in Helsinki, whatever the opinion, it provided us with a fantastic array of food choices and artisans that spanned multiple floors. It was the perfect place to visit before our journey home.
Final thoughts on Helsinki and Tallinn
Helsinki and Tallinn may be close in proximity, but they couldn’t be more different. Each present the visitor with a taste of something unique, something special to embrace with open minds and a curious spirit. Both are colorful and diverse in their own ways, waiting to be explored and not at all shy to show their true characters. Allotting three days each to these cities would allow you to get a really nice feel for what they have to offer. Not at all enough time to exhaust the sights in either, but you will come away from them both feeling a bit more in tune to those parts of the world.